Travels to the Mediterranean
Memoirs of Julianne Zaharis
Sitting on the rooftop in Athens
Well, we finally made it! By the graces of the Olympic gods I was able to sleep on the plane ride, but this time change is merciless. I’m sitting on the roof top of our hotel in Athens and looking at one of the most marvelous creations of mankind. It makes me stop to think about the potential of mankind and the strife’s we can make for perfection and beauty. I can barely keep my eyes off it to look down at the paper. Right now I’m envious of those tiny creatures I see walking up and down the acropolis, exploring what I’ve read so much about and seen so many times in art history books. But then a wave of both calm and excitement wash over me as I know I will soon be one of those insect like creatures marveling at the Parthenon and standing atop the acropolis hill. I do see from here the Parthenon is under construction, which I must admit is mildly disappointing, but I fully understand why this must take place, I’m just being selfish and a little bratty from the jet lag. In all this glory it almost seems as though I’ve forgotten my learning about the acropolis, there are so many facts just rushing through my head. I really just need to take a moment and soak it all in (and maybe a nap).
Still on the rooftop in Athens I caught the glimpse of the most wonderful smell of the native food. How I can’t wait for our dinner tonight! I was brought up on many Greek dishes, but am anxious to see just how Americanized its all been-being handed down from the generation from the old country directly to my Jewish mother, of whom I’m sure added her own elements into the recipes.
Family reflection
When I was on the plane with bucket seats snuggled with my pillow and complimentary blanket I couldn’t help but think of my grandparents. They both emigrated from Greece. My grandfather came to America as a rather young adult from the hills of northern Greece via boat. I once rode a boat (and twice after this trip!)- The CAT Ferry to Nova Scotia. I didn’t think I was going to survive the whole 3 hours on the water. Both my father and I were dog sick and could not wait to get off that boat. It is just short of amazing that my grandfather rode all the way from Athens to New York City in the base of the boat. When I was younger he would talk about the first time he saw the Statue of Liberty. He went through Ellis Island where our last name was cut from its original form of Zaharapuolis to simply, Zaharis-kind of thankful for that I must secretly admit. He and my grandmother had a traditional arranged marriage. She remained in Greece until the early 1940’s until the Nazi’s invaded. For compensation she was traded in terms of holy matrimony.
It always made me a little sad that my family fell from tradition so quickly. My father was not only not subjected to an arranged marriage, but he found my mother, a blond hair blue eyed Jewish American princess. My sister and I were never taught to speak Greek and many of the traditions eventually fell to the waste side based on their flower child mentality. On the plane ride the flight attendant would speak to me in Greek, I’m convincing myself it’s because I look so Greek I must be blending in already-yeah blending with my pink hair!
Greek Restaurant
We went out to our traditional restaurant tonight and it was fabulous! I was surprised to see a rather healthy size of a dish I was very familiar with-French fries, of course that didn’t stop me from eating. I was really excited to try a traditional Greek salad and could barely contain myself from looking like an obese American. But I was a little shocked, no lettuce? Oh well, when in Greece, right? Everything seemed to taste a little better than at home, the tomatoes and cucumbers were probably the freshest I’ve ever had. All in all I was really impressed with the meal. I took a break to go smoking outside, I know it’s kosher in Europe to smoke indoors but I didn’t want to be blowing my smoke in the faces of those accustomed to clean air. I was invited by an older gentleman who spoke very broken English to come and sit with him, which I gladly accepted. He asked me where I was from and when I said the United States the only thing he had to say was “Ack, Bush!” I didn’t know what to say I was so utterly embarrassed that that was the impression he had of my country. He offered me a glass of whine which I politely declined because I knew I had to get back to the group. Then he asks me if I’m married, to which I respond “no I’m not” and he responds firmly “Why?!?” I wasn’t sure exactly what to say, so I blamed the boys in our country by saying “there are no good American boys to marry”. He says “you marry good Greek boy!” and then he continues to say “and you come work here …. 5 nights a week, money is good!” I somehow weaseled my way out of this conversation and excused myself to go back and join the group.
Exploring the Acropolis
Well at this point I can nearly say my life is complete- I have walked through the hills of the Acropolis. Today we met Dionysia, our rather spirited and strong willed tour guide, to put it simply I feel safe with her by my side. When we were on the bus driving to our first sight she pointed out something hilarious to us. We passed a herd of people surrounding one lone policeman arguing. According to Dionysia this was a weekly event and all too common. I found this hilarious. The city where I’m from in Florida our cops would have been in numerous numbers with guns drawn.
We arrived first at The Temple of Zeus. My attention was first drawn to the column that had fallen. I was really impressed with the grace and artistic value still present in this artifact that was essentially destroyed. The remaining portions of the temple stood before me so huge and in perfect form. I was really excited to see the remnants on the side because I came up close and personal to a true Corinthian column. I was disappointed to hear the museum was not yet open, there are so many artifacts I’m dying to see, one in particular being the statue of Athena who resided in the Parthenon. I had known the temples were at one point colored, but I didn’t realize the colors were directed from the earth. And hearing Dionysia tell us the temples were at one point adorned with glass beads-what a sight to see!!! But it’s still hard to imagine having engrained pictures of the Acropolis as we know it for so long. I was kind of scared of walking because the marble was so slick and my shoes were just sliding like ice skates. When we climbed to the hill at the base of the Acropolis I was sliding around and became nervous for the rest of the journey. But what was disappointing was to see the hill littered with broken glass and cigarette butts adorning the ancient ricks were St. Paul once stood. The theatre was positively amazing. I had never really heard too much about Hadrian’s contributions and I found it fascinating that a Roman would create something so memorable and beautiful during his reign, but I’m sure there may have been some sort of vanity involved. In addition I was also impressed when Dionysia told us that Pericles contributed to the reconstruction with money from his own pocket. I was most excited the see the Erechtheion, that’s my favorite on the Acropolis and I’m just a little partial. I like this temple because of its disorder and the vanity of being so close to perfection that they purposely created this as an imperfection-speaks loudly for mankind I think. I was so excited to see the maidens on the porch, they were so perfect and so beautiful, but not at the same time. I was super excited to see the museum inside the Agora. I would have liked to have spent a little more time exploring the statues outside. I know they’re only copies, but seeing the contraposto pose on a statue that towers me in size is just mind blowing. But then again my feet were starting to feel the wears of the day, so maybe it was best to conserve my energy. I was really enamored looking at the ostracism case and then I got to see the kylix’s in person-how exciting was that?!?
We made it all the way to Delphi today. The view was utterly breathtaking, but the driving part was a little scary. Dionysia told us the boxes on the side of the roads were used to commemorate both the dead and those who survived-and there were a lot of them. She told us there were many fatal car accidents in Greece. And while I’ve been praising the Smart Car, it kind of makes me reconsider my opinion on our big obnoxious American cars. On the bus ride we passed Thebes. Home to my favorite tragic hero Oedipus. It was wonderful to hear Dionysia relay the story as we passed through the hills. It was an absolute amazing site to see and electricity just ran through my body looking at the hills and thinking of Sophocles. We reached our destination in one piece and there it was what I had been waiting to see-the Temple of Apollo which once housed the Oracle. I do have to have to admit that I was disappointed for less that half of a millisecond only because I would have liked to have seen some sort of remnants of the Oracle, just a little something commemorating such a sacred site. I really enjoyed seeing the site that looked like it was nothing more than caved in rocks and learning that it was basically a shopping center. I also liked Dionysia’s description of how the locals shopped, all by word of mouth. The remains of the public bath were also interesting to me. When I think of public baths my first thoughts go to the Romans, and this site made me realize the Greeks were doing things long before the Romans, which was pretty amazing. But probably the most memorable and by far my favorite part of the journey was actually seeing the forked road where Oedipus met and killed his father, sealing his destiny.
Eleusis absolutely blew my mind. I though seeing where the Oracle of Delphi once stood was amazing, but Eleusis more or less blew that out of the water. I have taken a history of Greece class so I was familiar with the tale, or actual myth of Demeter and Persephone. But hearing this while sitting on the very steps the Mysteries once sat just took my breath away. I was enamored with the site that supposedly led to Hades, I had to just stand there and take it all in, and it was so surreal. The whole experience was surreal. I’m not sure if it’s the mystery of the unknown or if it’s what I do know that had such a profound effect on me. The added touch of walking through wheat in Demeter’s home really almost sent chills up my spine. When we were sitting for our lecture bells would chime every 15 minutes and I couldn’t help but glance up at the church and marvel at its Byzantine beauty, but then think this is a very odd location for a church, in fact a little too close to ground zero. Then I’m reminded that Eleusis was pummeled by mysterious men in black robes. This did not sit well with me. I’m very well versed in religion, but I’ve always pictured monks to be peacefully enveloped by the spirit and love of their religion. It makes me think there is a thin line between love and hate, between peace and chaos. It was their love of their religion that influenced such chaos and violence to Eleusis.
Corinth made me a little sad for a couple of reasons. First and foremost the town seemed to be overrun by the influence of the church. Being an art history major I do have to admit that I was admiring the churches for their Byzantine glory, but at the same time resented them for almost suppressing the wonderful history of their city-state. Seeing church after church made me wonder if they’re almost denying or suppressing their own history. I would like to have known a locals perspective just to see their personal take on the history of their city. My next thoughts are kind of conflicting only because I can see both sides of the spectrum. When we were looking at these wonderful sites Dionysia told us underneath the hills and mountains lay the history of more ruins. My first instinctive impulse was to say “dig now!”, but then as I look at the surrounding areas I see churches and peaceful countryside houses of locals adorning these hills. Now is it fair to rob people of their homes and churches to see the ruins of Corinth? I really have no valid answer to that question. Wouldn’t archeologists and historians running in with their equipment ready to tear down the local village look a little like the mad men of Eleusis? The locals also have their own history and attachment to their town, is it fair or even ethical to push them out to see what lies underneath?
The theater at Epidaurus was extremely sentimental to me because I am positively obsessed with Sophocles. I would have died to have seen the actual performance being put on as they do in the summertime, but being able to sit on the stone steps and use my imagination was also a little too satisfying for my own good. But then something else happened to enhance my experience. Professor Ogle belted out the most beautiful and wonderful piece of opera. I’ve only actually experienced live opera once from the nose bleed section of a theatre in Florida. My feet had forsaken me so I had an optimum view from the front of this beautiful woman singing like an angel.
After this while the group was gathering I found a prime opportunity to corner Dionysia and get a little bit of my family history. I asked her if she was familiar with the town of Karpenisi. She told me it was a small town in the same direction as Delphi. I told her about my grandfather riding to Athens on a horse prior to his departure to America and she cracked me up when she told me he must have been a rich man to have a horse. We also laughed at the fact that every male in my family is named James or George, because as she says “everyone in Greece is named George”, which is true in my family and I even discovered that we tell them apart using the method of last name or nickname.
Dinner with Dionysia
Dionysia was gracious enough to invite us all over for dinner at her apartment. Trying to find and get on the Tram was an experience all in itself. Thanks to James and Felicia we actually made it there in one piece and I was happy to have had the experience of riding in a taxi in Athens, and I must note that it was crazier than any ride in a taxi through New York City and Hawaii combined. Her apartment was breathtaking-definitely put my shack to shame. I so admire her and have pride in her. She is a tough woman by American standards, and being familiar with the traditions of what a Greek woman is expected to be, she blows my mind and makes me smile at the same time. I’m so glad to have had the pleasure of meeting her. She made an unbelievable spread which included pasticcio. Now, I cannot get enough pasticcio because both my grandmother and mother made it, but because when my sister was little she couldn’t pronounce pasticcio, instead we call it patiza. I told Dionysia her pasticcio was better than my grandmother’s recipe and she was spinning in her grave for me saying that. She had never heard that expression before and laughed. James asked her an interesting question; he asked her how she learned to speak English. To which she says, “Do you want the real answer???? I wanted to see if Scarlet ended up with Brett Butler.”
Athens Archeological Museum
When we went to the Archeological Museum in Athens I was literally skipping like a little kid in a candy store. The second I laid my eyes on the statue of Zeus I nearly passed out. I had seen him in slides in my art history classes but that was nothing compared to actually standing in front of him. I don’t even know if I can express the excitement I felt when I walked in the room and saw the Death mask of Agamemnon. I’ve seen so many pictures of this figure, but to see it in person was practically an indescribable experience. Being in the sheer presence of Schliemann collection was a most memorable experience. I swear I felt his excitement as he excavated all these artifacts. Seeing all the different statues of the Korus and Kore’s were amazing. I was under the false impression there was only one state of Korus and one of Kore surviving, why? Because I saw one slide of each in my studies. I was shocked to see how many have survived and happy to see the multiples. I took a special liking to the Kore holding the pomegrate seed. I felt she had a special significance because of our trip to Eleusis. I loved seeing the Archaic smile on the statues, I can’t really give a valid explanation why, but just seeing it was so memorable. I absolutely fell in love with the statue of Aphrodite, Pan and Eros while listening to Dionysia describes the event taking place. I was not familiar with this statue and couldn’t get over her cool demeanor and coy attitude as she holds up her sandal prepared to beat away Pan’s strong hold.
Exploring Knossos
At the Palace of Knossos I had to keep telling myself, “this is 4,000 years old!” It’s almost unbelievable as I type this now. I was of course familiar with the myth of Dedalos and his son with the wax wings, but had no idea he was the architect of Knossos. After exploring the grounds I can see why he felt the only way he could escape was with wax wings! I had so much fun wandering through the labyrinth of the castle and pictured myself being part of my own personal Greek myth of trying to find my way out. I was really enamored when we walked by the archeologists at work, I didn’t want to stare, trying to mind my manners about being rude, but it was so neat to see this in person, I felt like I should have been on National Geographic or something. I’m glad restoration was done to the castle to show us how the palace appears in tact. My favorite spot was standing where the bull leaping contests took place. I had seen slides of the bull leaping in my art history class, but the story I told differed from the one George relayed to us. I was told the women would hold the bull while the men would summer salt over it. But the story George told seem to match a little better with the image of holding the horns and then flipping over. I was excited to get to stand where these events may have actually taken place.
The Heraklion Museum was absolutely mind blowing. Now I thought I was excited at the museums in Athens, this museum took on a whole new dimension. These artifacts were 4,000 years old-still having to remind myself! I had to stand and admire the figure that captured the first motion known in art history, this is an image I had never seen before and will never forget. I was excited to see the actual original of the Bull Leaping fresco. After having stood where the events took place I felt almost like a little kid tingling with excitement.
Gortyna was a place I had never heard of, was completely unfamiliar with, but positively blown away by. First and foremost we were stepping all over ancient pottery that was just lying on the ground. Oh the guilt I felt each time I heard a crunch under my shoes and imagining the treasures that must be under there. On our way out we saw a broken piece of a Byzantine art; George determined it must have been part of a plate of some sort. How I just wanted to snatch that up and put it in my bag …. No no no, can’t do that! The Basilica of St. Titus was also amazing, this was the closest I had come to an actual Byzantine church and was super excited to see the art that was hidden inside. It was also a little crazy to see this one tree that remains green throughout the year, kind of strange and I can understand why a myth was put to it.
Matala was the best! The beach was so amazing. Being from Florida and having practically lived on the beach for many many years, I didn’t think I would be all too impressed, but how wrong was I?!? The water was amazingly blue and chaotic-Poseidon was at work in the seas that day. After having been drug under water twice I felt it safest to evacuate. Then we ventured up to the caves. Have to admit it was neat, but a little creepy. I could almost image the bodies lying in their tombs. Later on the bus George told us the bodies were thrown in the water when the hippies came. I found this kind of ironic that flower children would have such little respect for the dead and simply thrown the remains of those once living into the sea to be lost forever.
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