Maisie's Blog

Travels Through Hellas

Being the Travel Journal of Margaret Libby, of her thoughts and impressions of Greece

Prologue

This part, I’m writing before we leave, because there’s no guarantee that I’ll be in any state to write an introduction on the plane. I thought I would address for a few moments why I want to go to Greece and what I am expecting from this trip—in other words, why am I here? The simplest answer to that is that someone in an Honors 111 preceptorial made a joke about visiting the Acropolis that grew, but that’s not even half the real answer.

I discovered Greek mythology when I got tired of reading Snow White and Cinderella, around third grade. Obviously, I didn’t read the more risqué myths at that age, but I learned about many of the more famous ones. I’ve been interested ever since, on and off. In sixth grade, Mrs. Beedy taught us about Greek culture, and I was interested all over again. It happened once again in European history in high school, and finally when I went into Honors. The interest in mythology is far greater than the interest in the birthplace of democracy, but the culture as a whole is intriguing. When I was given the chance to see the places that I’ve been reading about and seeing pictures of for years, of course I jumped at it.

What do I expect from this trip? I’m trying very hard to expect nothing at all, because I’m pretty sure that any illusions or expectations that I have are going to dissolve at some point during all the tours. I expect the kind of experience that changes lives, I expect to have fun, and beyond that, I’m going to take things as they come.

Added note, while typing the journal: I am writing down and expanding on almost everything that I wrote down in the paper journal that I had, so some of the observations may be strange, for which I apologize in advance.

Leaving on a Jet Plane

For some reason, travel always means getting up at ridiculous hours of the morning. No matter where I’m going, it always works out like that, and this trip is no different. That means, of course, that I was at less than my best when I arrived in Orono this morning. Excitement was over and done with a few days ago, replaced by outright panic, but this morning, I found it difficult to feel much of anything at all (besides cranky), which is actually a good thing. I slept on the bus ride and survived the first security check (despite a few nerve-wracking minutes while the security officer stared at my passport photo because it’s very green), waited around and got on a plane.

I was ready to turn around and go right back after that plane flight, because it was full of rattles and bumps, but instead I went through security again, had an exorbitantly priced lunch, and waited around for the plane to Greece. When we got on it, I was pleased to find that the plane was relatively empty. I had a window seat, and until the last minute, I thought I would have the two seats to myself so that I could spread out to sleep. At the last minute, though, James sat down (wonderful as he is, I can’t say that I was absolutely pleased to see him, but it did turn out to be fun). And then … we sat. It was a long and dull plane ride, punctuated by meals that were surprisingly good, even if they did smell like hospitals. I watched Atonement (which is not at all a happy film) and tried to sleep. That was not at all helped by the other college group from Pace University, who acted exactly like every stereotype of Americans that is out there, getting drunk and being loud and making life difficult for everybody. I am still proud that I didn’t kill them.

For most of the day, I had been in something of a fog, but when Beth woke me up to announce that we were flying over France, the whole experience really hit me. It hit me all over again when I looked at the progress map and discovered that we were closer to Baghdad than to Maine. Considering the farthest I’d ever been before that was Denver, I was in something of a shock when the distance had been put in those terms. For the first time, I didn’t just think “oh, we’re going to Greece,” I actually understood what that meant, and then I had trouble getting back to sleep in my excitement.

This addition to the entry was written in the hotel: My first sights of Greece were more than I could have hoped. I’d reminded myself numerous times that the entire country was not covered in ruins, but I wasn’t at all disappointed, because I was too busy thinking of how much my father would love seeing all of those agricultural fields and enjoying the mountains. That was most of my thoughts on our way from the airport to our hotel as well (interrupted by a few grouchy minutes of “the itinerary said we would be whisked to the hotel, but this is definitely more of a shlep”). My first sights of Athens were wonderful as well, because the city is so much more beautiful than most American cities. There are very few tall buildings, so you can see the beautiful views, and on the whole, you can definitely tell that you’re in a different place. I can’t wait to see what it brings.

The First Day

1:30 pm

Beth and Kerry are napping, but I can’t sleep. Who needs shut-eye when I’m staring dead at the Acropolis from my balcony? I might never come inside, but at least while I’m out here I can write down the little things I’ve noticed so far.

The Greeks seem friendly. Or at least, they don’t mock me when I say “Kalimera” and “efkaristo” (I really must learn the alphabet, phonetic spelling just won’t do it). They speak very quickly, and I don’t think that’s just me not understanding. There are ridiculous amounts of motorcycles and mopeds, but very few bicycles (though that makes sense, they would probably be crunched in traffic). One of the wonderful things is that there are plants everywhere: palm trees, flowers, trees, and one place in the city, I even saw grape trellises! Athens is enough to make anyone rethink their definition of what a city is. It’s not clearly laid out in grids, but that’s comfortable for me, though some people probably object to the illogic of it. It just feels like my little tiny town gone out of control. For instance, the noise that I thought must be some sort of emergency announcement is actually a man selling plants from the bed of a truck. I’m tempted to buy some, just because you’d never find something like that in the US. In fact, I could probably call down from this balcony and no one would even look at me strangely, because the balconies seem to be part of life here. The man across the way from me waved at me when I first came out, and I was completely delighted. Who would do that in NYC? Some men at the end of the street came out to clean the outdoor walls, and the scraping sound is actually pleasant to listen to. The sounds are different, especially because there are birds here, not just pigeons but real songbirds. I don’t know the names of them, but it’s nice to know that they’re here.

The balcony is my favorite thing about this room, not just because of the view (though that is amazing. I’m looking at the Acropolis right now. Maybe if I repeat that enough times it will hit me how completely strange and wonderful that is), but because the balconies and rooftops are really a part of life here. This is the first time I’ve spent much time on one, and I am resisting the urge to declaim Shakespeare (“Oh Romeo, Romeo, wherefore art thou …” I am tempted, just to see if the man in the red truck down the street would be able to continue the scene).

Finally, the long day of travel is hitting me, but before I go in for my nap, I would like to write down two things that I don’t want to forget: the Mercedes taxis and Kerry having to chase her luggage down the hill earlier (which was funny enough that it got a slow-mo replay once we made it to the hotel room). Transcription note: In the paper journal, there’s a really beautiful stick-figure picture of Kerry chasing her luggage at this point, but I haven’t got a scanner to show it to you.

10 pm

I ended up taking two different naps earlier, which was nice, as I was rested for dinner after that. Dinner was amazing. I’d never had lamb before (even though, or really because, my family raises sheep), and while that wasn’t the most pleasant thing I’ve ever eaten, it wasn’t horrible. I really liked that spread that they had for the bread, as well (transcription note: tzaziki, of course), and the baklava was of course delicious. I said “thank you” in Greek, and the owner was over the moon. That actually became something of a theme—I said it to a shop owner later on, and he gave me free candy, which I’d never had happen to me. It’s like I said before, everyone is just really nice here, if some of the shopkeepers seem a bit pushy to me. I got two sets of worry beads, which I’ve been wanting since my aunt told me about them in April.

Now, at the end of the day, I’m on the rooftop sipping my first drink (ever, not just legal, not that you wanted to know that. For the record, it’s rather disgusting, which is probably because I hate soda and it’s a rum and Coke) and socializing with other people on the trip. I’m enjoying getting to know them a bit more, that’s for certain.

Here’s a few observations that have little to do with anything, they’re just things that I want to remember: I keep wanting to speak French, and other people I’ve been talking to have mentioned wanting to revert to whatever foreign language they learned in high school. It seems to be a courtesy thing, where we feel guilty that our culture isn’t at all bilingual. The Acropolis is gorgeous at night, and while all of my pictures are blurry I still get to look at it right now, at least. The buskers here are amazing: for instance, the Peruvians gave me quite a start when I saw them, just because a pair of men dressed like stereotypical Native Americans was not at all what I expected to see, and there are other musicians (a pair of men with guitars and a man with something that looked a bit like a hammer dulcimer) as well. It gives me something of a soundtrack to the city, no matter how strange a soundtrack, and I really enjoy it.

The Acropolis and Other Important Monuments

We all know what we saw today: the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Acropolis and all connected to that, and the Agora, not to mention smaller sights in between. Beyond that, I honestly cannot think of a thing to say. This day was the inspiration for the whole trip, and I have finally seen the buildings that I have been seeing pictures of for years. They weren’t at all what I’d expected, though. For one thing, the Acropolis was far more slippery than I’d realized. But in all seriousness, the biggest difference is that I had expected them to seem cold, austere, and unapproachable. They weren’t, of course, that was just my neoclassical sensibilities. They were just as warm and lively as the rest of Greece, which of course makes sense.

Seeing things like that always makes me want to touch them, which is driving me crazy at the moment. It’s always been an important way for me to learn, though I do understand why I can’t indulge in it. It’s just a little bit sad. I especially wanted to go stand next to the caryatids, see the height comparison, because those particular structures have interested me since I knew about them, but I had to content myself with taking a whole lot of pictures.

The sense of history is amazing here. You walk around the Plaka, and suddenly there’s a “Sanctuary of Pan” or a “Roman Cistern.” None of the Greeks blink an eye at that, but I always have to stop and look. I’d like to think that isn’t a tourist thing, no more than wanting to see the Acropolis is. It’s pure curiosity, and I do it in the States as well.

Wandering around the Plaka in a small group can be fun and education, and I did it for a while with Beth, Felicia and Julianne after our late lunch (or, in other words, the Institution visit that wasn’t). The shopkeepers are so nice, even if it’s because they want you to buy things. When you’re nice back, they tend to drop prices, especially if you try to speak Greek. There’s more casual touch than there is in the US, which I also like, as it makes the whole city feel like one big community.

Before I wind this day down, I want to comment on the subway theft. It’s definitely horrible, but I’m really surprised it hadn’t happened to us before. I’m glad that they were able to cancel various cards in time, but still … the whole thing is just an awful mess. And it completely ruined my romantic illusions about gypsies, which I suppose is a good thing, as now I’ll be wary.

Well, it’s the end of the day, and I’m eating strawberries on the roof (and feeling very elegant, I must say), so I am going to devote my attention to conversation.

Delphi

A quick note on the way to Delphi: I love that a motorcycle is a family vehicle here. I just saw a man drop his wife off at work, kiss her goodbye, and go off about his own day. I don’t know why, but I think that’s completely amazing. More later.

11 pm, the rooftop

It’s the little things that jolt me the most. The fact that the mountains are covered in shrubbery and not pine trees. The differently shaped people on the bathroom and pedestrian signs. The beehives on the side of the road. Even the comma instead of the period in prices takes me aback at times. It’s a constant reminder that we’re far away from Maine.

Delphi was even more amazing than Athens, in some ways, perhaps because I had less expectations of it. The air is clearer, there’s more greenery, and the ruins … I wanted so badly for the gases to be rising still. Call me foolish, but I keep expecting to discover something, and for Delphi to become active again? That would be beyond amazing. Even though everything is in ruins, it gives the impression of being ready to start bustling again any second.

Some things awe me to the point where I can’t begin to verbalize my impressions, and I know that sounds like a copout. There’s just a point where words become superfluous, although music begins to give an impression.

When Dionysia talked about the ancient music they found, I got really excited (Dionysia is my hero, by the way. I want to be just like her when I grow up). I wish there had been a place to listen to the music. She said it sounds “contemporary,” which makes me extremely curious. I expected that very distinct sound that Greek music has, but if it doesn’t sound like that, then the possibilities are endless.

This is definitely going to be one of the highlights of my trip.

Freedom, or “Even Greeks Get the Blues”

I spent today with Beth, Kerry, Felicia and Julie, for the most part. The first thing we did this morning was go to the Ancient Cemetery, because it looked so lovely when we passed it on our way to the Temple of Zeus the other day. I always enjoy cemeteries, and that was no exception. Being here, as a writer, is giving me all sorts of ideas for short stories, and this was one place that was full of inspiration. Some of the grave steles were really lovely, and walking through the cemetery itself was very calming.

After that, we went to the Roman Forum and the Tower of the Winds (which is just as interesting as everyone says it is), where for some reason they seemed to be setting up for a concert. I really would have liked to watch the concert, but instead we just stayed and took pictures for a little less than half an hour before having quite an adventure trying to find our way back to a familiar part of the Plaka. It was lunchtime, and we wanted to go to the place with the really cheap gyros. It’s funny how the maitre d’s try to get customers in with various ploys, something they would never stoop to in the cities I’ve been to, and I really enjoy it. We finally stopped at a place that offered us 10% off, and then wandered back to the hotel to listen to Iota (if that’s how you spell her name, nobody ever mentioned)’s talk, which was very interesting. I might have to try to read some Platinas now, just because I like the concept of being beautiful when you look upon beautiful things.

A little more Plaka-wandering brought on an interesting moment: for some reason, there was a duo playing blues, which was incongruous and wonderful all at the same time. There was a saxophone and a bass, and they were doing some pretty fancy improv. That definitely felt like the States, and I would have stopped to listen, but was instead dragged away.

The evening was spent with Greta, Sarah, Kelly and Matt, which was a nice change of pace. First, we found an internet café (which was an adventure in and of itself), and then had a real adventure trying to find the restaurant where Apollo works. We did find him (and what a strange man. The Greeks are friendly, as I’ve said, but he was friendly in somewhat awkward ways at times), and had a fun dinner. We didn’t end up leaving until nearly 12:30, however, which means that I am writing this entry on the balcony at 2 am, as my poor roommates are sleeping. I should get some rest, we have a long day tomorrow, and dinner at Dionysia’s!

Eleusis, Corinth, Epidaurus, and Dinner with Dionysia

Say the word “mysteries” and I am hooked. Eleusis was no exception. Surprisingly, I actually had heard many of the smaller nuances of the Demeter and Persephone story, but it was nice being reminded of them right there. I wished that the lighting had fit the mysterious mood better, but I suppose I have no control over the sun (to go on something of a tangent: the sun here is strange, or more to the point, people’s reactions to it are. Some people put on sunscreen every half-hour like clockwork and still sunburn or get those worrying rashes, while I put it on once a day and don’t even turn pink, even though I sunburn something fierce in Maine. I’m sure I’ll have more opportunity to discuss that). Looking at a bunch of stones doesn’t necessarily do it for me, but the stories associated with them certainly do! The museum was lovely too, especially that truly massive caryatid (I have a bit of a caryatid obsession, and the Classics ladies are thinking that might be a fun Halloween costume. Tangents again!). I thought it was especially wonderful that there was wheat growing all over the place, since it was sacred to Demeter.

And then it was in the bus again, to the Corinth canal, which was almost eye-wateringly blue and frighteningly far down. It was at this stop that I ate the best spaghetti I have ever had in my life—at a fast-food restaurant, of all places. This restaurant also had the honor of having the least sketchy bathroom that I have found in all of Greece (Transcription note: It remained the least sketchy bathroom that I found in Greece, and less sketchy than many in the US as well).

Lunch had and pictures taken, the group loaded into the bus once again, bound for Ancient Corinth. I found that particular archaeological site to be somewhat less inspiring than some others, for reasons I still do not understand. I like the story about the fountain, and the columns with the statues of Phrygian slaves, but for the most part, I was too tired to properly appreciate Corinth. It was a beautiful place, and I got some beautiful pictures, but it didn’t light me on fire like Delphi, or even Eleusis.

Following Corinth, there was a long bus ride, which, oddly enough, might have been some of the best sight-seeing we did all day, because I got my first proper gaze at the Mediterranean (well, the Aegean. But either way, it was almost as blue as the canal), as well as seeing breathtaking sights in the mountains. One of the saddest things I’ve seen might be the huge patches of forest that were blackened by the recent forest fires. This long road brought us to Epidaurus, which was wonderful (I liked the stories Dionysia told us about how they managed to heal people, especially the pregnancy one). We made a bit of fun in the museum, because several of the statues had snakes wrapped around them, and there were some Britney Spears references, but it was still beautiful statuary (although, after today, I’m not sure that I ever want to take a picture of a headless statue again. They all start to look the same after a while). The archaeological site was fun as well, but what was really lovely was the theater. The acoustics, as Professor Ogle proved, are absolutely phenomenal. I was all the way up at the top when she started to sing, and could hear as if she were right next to me (and I really wanted to join in, but it was rather intimidating. That will have to wait for later in the trip, I suppose). It was definitely a long and somewhat slippery way up as well, but definitely worth it, if only for the view and the pictures that I got.

And then it was back to the bus, where Dionysia gave us a lecture on the modern history of Greece. I’m afraid that I slept from a few centuries before Byron until World War Two, but what I heard was really interesting (I’m equal opportunity: history ancient and recent interests me just the same amount). Then, when we got to Athens, she got off and some of us got ready to go to dinner at her house.

Ah, dinner with Dionysia. That sounds like a television cooking show, but it turned out to be more of an adventure film. Hours later, I have figured out the problem: we were going off the wrong metro station when using our directions, so of course we got lost, and all of us got stressed. I won’t write about that part, nobody was exactly shown in a flattering light at that point. But, suffice it to say, eventually we made it, met Dionysia’s wonderful dogs, and ate a really delicious dinner, then made it back without too much more mishap. And once again, it’s around 2 am and I need to get some rest.

Leaving Athens: Written on the Boat

Well, today was a bit bittersweet, because Athens is beautiful. We slept in a bit, then checked out of our room and left to wander the Plaka one last time. We visited several shops that we’d been to before, and had one last lunch at the cheap gyro place (which I will have to return to someday, as they serve the best veggie burgers I have ever tasted), then worked our way back to the Acropolis View.

The museum … I was exhausted and ready to go take a nap, so I didn’t get too many impressions of it. Some of the statues were beautiful, though, and it was really nice to see bronze and other kinds of artifacts, not just the stone that we had seen before, as well as some statues that I’d heard of for years and never seen. The smaller things were good as well, again because we’ve mostly been exposed to the “big” things thus far on the trip (completely understandably, of course). However, I was very glad to get back onto the bus and head for Piraeus.

I love boats, but this is not a boat. This is a palace. I keep having uncomfortable Titanic flashbacks, but it’s still wonderful, and I’m pretty sure that there is more floor space in our room on the boat than there was in the Acropolis View Hotel. We explored the boat, and found everything from a movie theater to a baby grand piano (well, more of a preemie grand, it was really tiny). There were mirrors everywhere, which gave me a lot of starts. The view from the top deck was really lovely as well, and I liked seeing us leave port. Beth, Kerry and I, occasionally joined by Felicia and a few others, had fun wandering the ship all evening (although all of us were a little bit freaked out by the people who were camping out in the various hallways), at least until a slightly creepy gentleman started following us around, at which point we found some of the boys, stayed with them until he walked away, and then retreated to our cabins, where we are now, as he was enough of a creeper to keep us from wanting to explore much more.

It’s early, but we’re all tired, and there isn’t much more to say, so I guess that’s it for today. I’m too tired to miss Athens much, and I’m looking forward to being by the seaside.

Island in the Sun

I love Crete. I didn’t sleep well, since it was really hot in the cabin on the boat, but it’s perfect outside. When we got to the hotel, I was expecting another tiny room, but I was pleasantly surprised, as it’s at least double the size of the one in Athens, with a nice balcony and really comfortable beds. The bathroom is, of course, sketchy, but again, less tiny than the other one. On the whole, I could see myself really enjoying the stay in the room.

Once we were settled in, we explored the street a bit. There’s a market right next door, where I bought some nectarines and really delicious bread, and we have found the Greek equivalent of the Dollar Store, although it is far more expensive, since it’s the Euro-fifty store. I bought some beach shoes, since I’d forgotten to bring any before … which of course meant that we had to go to the beach. We got changed and headed down, and on the way we made our first “friend” in Crete.

There’s a lovely little restaurant next to the beach closest to our hotel, and the maitre d’, like so many others, stopped us to talk. He asked us about our stay, and told us about traditional Greek music and dancing that would be happening tonight, and he was really genuinely nice, which was good. After that conversation, we proceeded to the beach. Which is amazing, by the way. The sand is incredibly hot, dark gray more than black but still very nice. The maitre d’ told us that the water was cold, but when I went in, it was better than some lakewater in Maine in July, so it will be very hard (and was very hard) to pull me away when the time comes.

After beach time, we went a ways down the street and had dinner, where I had another really delicious veggie burger (it must be a European theme, and I’m going to miss them when we leave—which is soon, what an awful thought), and then we went back to “our” restaurant, where we ordered some cocktails and settled in to watch the music. The electronic backup track cracked me up a bit, but the man with the bouzouki was wonderful. James was playing with his worry beads, and one of the waiters took them away and delivered a tutorial on how to do it, as well as informing him that he needed a new set, as his would wear out. We were immediately adopted by the entire wait staff, really, and had a wonderful time getting pulled into the dancing and listening to the music. Some of the dancing was somewhat awkward, but it was still lovely.

Music night was followed by girl talk in the room (with my roommates slightly tipsy), during which time I discovered my first sunburn of the trip—though it still wasn’t half as bad as most of the ones I get in Maine. I wonder if I respond better to this UVA/UVB combination than that in New England, but since I’m not a scientist, I honestly have no idea. We have to get up for a tour, I’d better stop while I still can.

Religion and Flush Toilets, Then and Now

Knossos, in other words

Today, we finally reached the point where everyone is more tired than they are amazed to be in Greece, which means that people are getting grouchy. My roommates are currently having a little bit of a silent-treatment tiff, and I’m going to write out the day and let them work it out for themselves.

Knossos was nice. Even walking through the walkway that was covered with purple flowers was lovely, and hearing the peacocks was fun, if somewhat frightening the first few times. I liked seeing the archaeologists actually at work, too, and got a chance to snap a few pictures. I know that reconstruction is a really big archaeological faux pas (I’m an anthropology major, after all), but I still really liked being able to physically see what parts of the palace might have looked like, especially the paintings. Hearing about the flush toilets was amusing, if nothing else (I hope they flushed better than the modern ones on Crete, as the modern water pressure is nothing to be proud of), and I like all of George’s incidental knowledge (I love him too, in a different way than Dionysia. She was go-ahead, definitely a fighter, while George is definitely more calm), and how he pointed out the double-headed ax on the rock for us, as well as casually uncovering a bit of pottery to prove that the site is still mostly unexcavated (if they don’t excavate the tourist parts soon, they are shortly going to lose all context in their site, but then again, maybe many people understanding at least some of the experience is better than documenting the exact position of every pottery sherd. I have just committed archaeological blasphemy). The whole time, everyone kept mentioning “the goddess,” and I hadn’t heard much about her, so I really would like to learn more. I suspect I will have to go back and do some research—on Theseus and Phaedra as well. Professor Passman mentioned that the other day, and I doubt that she’ll have time to tell us the story, which has made me insanely curious.

Following our time in Knossos, we made our way to the temporary Heraklion Museum, which was about the size that I had patience for. All the statues of the goddess and other things were really fun to see, and I got some good pictures taken … and then we walked out to go shopping. People on Crete don’t necessarily offer you discounts if you’re nice to them, but they are certainly willing to haggle. Beth especially became an expert at it very shortly, and it was really amusing. Ask to pay less for a set of earrings in the US and see how long it takes for the proprietor to stop laughing. By the end, I had finished most of my souvenir shopping for my friends, and was ready to get back for a relaxing afternoon.

The afternoon started with lunch with Professor Ogle, where we discussed trip details, as well as various other things, following which I went down to the beach and had a little bit of time alone—much as I love everyone on this trip, sometimes I just need time to relax and unwind, which I finally got the chance to do. I took a very short nap on the beach, woke myself up before I sunburned too badly, went back to the hotel, and had a shower and a proper nap while my roommates had their own beach time. When they came back, a bunch of us got together and went to dinner at a different restaurant (there was a help wanted sign on the way, and if my mother wouldn’t be completely horrified, I would think about it. Maybe someday, right?). It wasn’t the best restaurant I’ve been to on this trip, but the waitress was really nice, so that alone was worth it.

After that, there was more shopping, although a few people dropped out to go to the beach, and the shopping was nice except that one of the shopkeepers was (unintentionally, I hope) mean to Beth, and there were self-esteem problems, which means we never made it to the beach, which is why the roommates have been fighting.

And bless them, they have made up, which means that I can get some sleep and hope that everyone will feel a little nicer tomorrow.

Palaces, Law Codes, and the Deep Blue Sea

What a day! Crete has lit me on fire more than the mainland did, perhaps because I’d heard so much more about the sights in and around Athens and had built so many expectations about them. I was too busy being amazed at how different they were from the pictures to realize how amazing they are in their own rights. There are no such problems on Crete. The views from Festos are absolutely breathtaking, and while I don’t remember too much about the site itself besides the metal works and the fact that it’s eroding away fast, I do remember that there are cacti on the way in that people carved their names into, and another kind of flowering cactus we saw that seems to eat insects. But as I said, it was the views that really stuck.

I’m sorry to start with Festos, though. It was Gortyn first, which was actually more amazing to me. The church was really lovely (and I liked that there was one room left for icons and candles, as well as all the birds that were flying around), as was the Odeum, but the Law Code really blew me away. I don’t know why, exactly, but maybe because it really told us so much about how they lived their lives every day (I especially liked that there was no capitol punishment). I ended up getting a translation that I haven’t had the time to read yet, because for some reason it really amazes me, even though laws tend to not be my first choice of study. I was also wowed by the discussion of the evergreen plane tree (which I had to tell my agriculturally minded father about as soon as I could), whether or not Zeus ever did do anything there, as well as the trees that grew up around the Roman pillars across the road. On the whole, I didn’t expect anything in the day to be near as wonderful as Gortyn, but considering how I jumped in with my discussion of Festos, I’m sure you can tell how excited I was about all of it.

From Festos we went to Matala, and even though we didn’t see any archaeological sites, it was the most amazing part of the day. I had a quick lunch of bread and fruit, and then I got in the water (I thought about going to the caves, but the ocean was so blue and so nice, despite the waves, and then I just wanted to collapse on my towel). It was even warmer than it is on the south side of the island, and we had a lot of fun playing around in the waves. I got knocked over and got salt water in my face several times, as the tide was strong, but it was really worth it. When we left, I slept most of the way back (though I woke up in time to see “Zeus’s face,” which was a really cool story as well).

Back at the hotel, we all took showers and naps and compared war wounds—all of us were rather tanner, and very tired, and I’d managed my first proper sunburn of the trip, which hurt a bit but was still worth it. After resting, we collected the rest of our group and forayed down the road to get some dinner. One restaurant would not give up trying to recruit us, so we went there, where one of the waiters looked like the Greek version of the Fonz. The wait staff there was wonderful to us as well, joking around with us when Katie and Lena both ordered “Sex on the Beach” and bringing us free drinks at the end of dinner. We even got our hands kissed! On the whole, it was an enjoyable dinner.

After that, I gave myself a people-vacation, letting Beth and Kerry go upstairs for a little bit of a party and listening to the techno music that the boy across the way was playing (and dancing a bit, I may as well admit it. Well away from the window, though). Now he has gone to bed, and it’s time for me to do the same.

I am not in Santorini

It might have been interesting to go to “Atlantis” today, but it was a really wonderful day here nonetheless. We slept in, which was amazing, and then went off shopping (and saw the Fonz again, who wanted us to come to lunch). We went most of the way down one street and ended up at “Gyromania,” which seems to be some sort of fast food. It was delicious, no matter what it was, and very filling considering how cheap it was. After that, we wandered back to the hotel for some relaxation, and then spent much of the afternoon at the beach again (it will be very hard to get me away from this wonderful water) before going to the Patisserie a few doors down to have sandwiches and sugar for dinner. This brought on another spate of shopping, and then the fun part of the day started.

First, most of us who had been there all day went to Julianne and company’s room and had an attack of the giggles, and then we decided that we wanted to go down to the beach at night, so we started off for that. On the way, a pair of gentlemen noticed us, without men along, and apparently assumed that all of us were drinking, since Beth had a wine bottle with her. They followed us down to the restaurant by the beach, where the very nice maitre d’ overheard their conversation and gave them the what-for in Greek before talking to us for several minutes while making sure they were out of the way.

On the beach, Beth and I started singing, which might be one of the highlights of the trip so far: Broadway, folk songs, and a few hymns. She sang a bit of an aria, but I didn’t know it. The wait staff leaned over the handrails and listened to us sing, and then we discussed music with the maitre d’ on the way out, which was wonderful again. He really is one of my favorite people that I’ve met on this trip, though all of them continually astonish me, not only with their kindness, but with their intelligence as well (most of them speak three or four languages, if not more).

At long last, we are back in the hotel, and I am realizing that for the first time I’m actually homesick, so I suppose I should go to bed. I’ve had the strangest dreams on this trip—hardly any of them actually about what we’ve been seeing, but I wonder if the air is just different here or something, because they’re very vivid. However, I’ll have to think about that at a later time, because I’m exhausted.

All Good Things Must Come to an End

I am trying my hardest not to sleep at all, which means that I am writing this around two o’clock in the morning. (Transcription note: advance warning, I have done my best to make this make sense but it still might be a tad bit tangential.) Today was another free and relaxing day. It started with a fun breakfast with my roommates, Felicia, and Julianne, which was followed by a trip down the street with them, Katie, and James. There was shopping, of course, but the point of the trip was to visit the Orthodox Church down the road.

After almost two weeks of craziness, even though I’m not at all religious, it was really lovely to go in there and breathe for a few minutes. The paintings inside were gorgeous, but mostly there was this air of peace, and I think all of us who went in prayed for a few moments, to whatever god or gods we believe in. After that restorative break, we walked most of the way back to the hotel, before a few of us decided that we wanted to go to Gyromania—so back we went, so I could eat tzaziki (which I have become addicted to), and everyone else could have gyros. We finally went back to the hotel after that, and I got some tzaziki mix and a few other things at the hotel shop, before we got ready for our last beach time.

We stopped and talked to “our” maitre d’ again for a few minutes, and then went down to the beach, where I swam more than sunbathed for once, which was really lovely. Kerry and I got a little bit hysterical and started “talking to Poseidon,” because we were having problems getting out of the water and decided that he wanted to keep us. It was bittersweet and fun all at once.

Whenever there is an event that is the least bit fancy, there is a certain kind of female that will take any excuse to dress up. This meant that, before dinner, a large group of us met up in my room to do hair and admire one another’s dresses, in a way that was reminiscent of getting ready for prom, in a way. Then we went downstairs to wait, where all of the poor boys seemed disturbed that they were going to be out with a bunch of girls in dresses.

Dinner was a wonderful way to wrap the whole experience up, and the evening that followed even more so. I won’t comment on the dinner except that I really liked that it was almost the same as we had on the first night, since it brought the whole thing full circle. After dinner, we went for cocktails at “our” restaurant, which was another real highlight. The wait staff remembered us, the waiter who had tutored James approved of what he had learned and reminded him to get a new set, they gave us free drinks and teased poor James until he blushed because he was alone with seven girls (and offered him a condom at the end of dinner. Europe really is a very strange place, at times). When we were finished there, we went down the road to the Black Cactus, where the techno was loud, the patrons were drunk, the bartenders hit on James (the funniest thing I saw all night), and where they were inexplicably dancing with a children’s pool toy that was shaped like a duck. Needless to say, we did not stay very long.

Back at the hotel once again, I watched a bit of the Eurovision contest with Greta, Sarah and Matt, and then came up here to journal. And now, even though I should stay up all night, I am going to take a nap, because my not being a horrible person tomorrow is more important than lack of jet-lag.

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

On the plane. The second one.

And this, the last day, is misery. I feel like the living dead, exhausted and homesick. I have no personal space, people bang into me no matter how I sit, and there is what seems to be a large Greek party occurring all around me. I sleep for ten minutes at a time, I’ve relived that same hour six or so times, I’ve heard “All Shook Up” three times at least, and even though I know I’m whining, I just want to be home. Every bit of soreness and tiredness that I should have been feeling all along has finally caught up with me, and I am less than impressed.

There has, however, been one perk to this never-ending flight: Ireland. I have wanted to visit there my entire life, and even flying over it meant a huge amount to me, though of course I couldn’t see a bit of it. Once again, it’s hit me how far from home I’ve been, and considering what a small-town girl I am, I’m bowled over all over again (though that might be the plane ride. By all logic, gravity should feel like it affects me less up here, but the exact opposite tends to happen, and I get sore all over. I’m lucky the rest of the travel is worth it).

It’s a shame that the wonders we’ve lived through have to be ruined by a miserable plane flight, but there’s no avoiding it. They can’t invent teleportation fast enough, though, because I would love to be able to pop over to visit London for an afternoon, or take other similar trips without the plane ride.

If the people around me don’t quite down soon, I will either scream or start crying (for the second time today. I really don’t travel well). At least they aren’t like the other students on the way over …

The next morning

Well, I survived the rest of the travel, though that last grouchy entry made it sound as if I was close to snapping. I will never like the plane riding part of travel, but being there makes it exciting enough to put up with. I slept in JFK more than I had since the night before, and was glad to see my family, so everything has a happy ending. I’ll write one last entry when I’m over my jet lag and have had time to sleep a bit.

Epilogue

I’ve had days to think about the trip now, and I can do my best to summarize, in a few bullet points, what I’ve learned.

• No matter how many times you hear it, you can’t comprehend how different famous sights are from the pictures until you actually see it.
• The plane ride is worth it.
• Knowing the history really does make seeing the sights better.
• Don’t spend too much time behind the camera lens, or you’ll miss some amazing things.
• You’re only young once, have fun as well as doing academics—or have fun with the academics. If you do something, you might regret it, but at least you will have done it.
• American girls should always walk with a male escort, especially if there are any signs at all that they are dressed up or have been drinking alcohol. There are no exceptions to this.
• Write it all down, or document it somehow, because you really will want to remember all of this in twenty years.
• Take opportunities like this with both hands, because they don’t come around often.

This has been an amazing experience. I’ve learned not just about history, but about modern people as well. I’ve met wonderful people, both within and without our group, and no matter how corny this feels to say, I really do think that this was a life-changing experience (in five years, I might know in what ways it has changed my life). I would definitely recommend that other people take the class, because everything seemed to fall together very well (though in future incarnations, utilizing stateside time better might be a good idea). In other words: don’t forget to tell me when the next trip is!

Thank you for a wonderful experience, all of you. You can feel free to excerpt parts of the journal on the blog if you want, and I can e-mail you some of my better pictures next week some time.