William S. Schappert
Travels in the Mediterranean
Tina Passman
Spring 2008
JOURNAL ENTRIES IN GREECE
SPRING SEMESTER TRAVEL STUDY
MAY 13th
Today was certainly an early rise for both Elyse and me. Running on only a few hours of sleep and waking at approximately 5:00 am, Elyse and I had officially begun our journey, although I feel that neither of us fully anticipated the fulfilling excitement Greece had in store for us.
Upon our arrival at Portland international airport we had only a short time before boarding on what was one of the more frightening plane flights I have ever been on! E.T.A. was roughly 55 minutes, but when we approached JFK Airport, the precarious decent towards the landing strip certainly seemed like it took a lifetime. Having traveled as extensively as I have, one would figure that flying would become something like second nature due to my having been able to endure long arduous trans-Atlantic flights to faraway lands. However, this most definitely was not the case in this particular circumstance.
Finally we landed!!
After checking our bags and passing successfully through security we had several hours before the Olympic flight to Greece. This was a good time for me to try and get to know a few of my fellow travelers, have a few drinks, and clear my mind of any pre-flight jitters. (A few prayers proved to help).
After 10 hours or so, and what was a very successful flight, the Greece Trip “27” had finally touched down in Athens Greece. What was to be in store for us?
May 14th
Surprisingly the customs process in Greece was quite relaxed and easily executed. We were met by a local representative who helped us find our way to the bus which brought us to our hotel. We checked in quickly, and then well all rushed to the rooftop only to discover exactly why our abode was dubbed the “Acropolis View Hotel”. It was one of the more beautiful places I have ever been. However, despite the fact that the rooms were cramped, and the pillows/beds were hard and unforgiving, the view from the 5th floor certainly took precedence in all of our minds and set us at ease.
Elyse, Felicia, and I all agreed that it was time for a well needed nap. Fortunately for me Elyse had already made friends with our roomy- Felicia. I myself had the pleasure of meeting her in my Ancient Philosophy class the previous semester, so I was reassured that any potential problems would undoubtedly remain nonexistent. Both Elyse and I had concurred at this point in our stay that she would make the trip enjoyable for, not only us, but the entire “27”. I hope she feels the same.
4:00 pm came rather quickly. Our class meeting on the rooftop was insightful/inspiring due to the lecture’s educative nature. I was particularly interested in the notion of how The Goddess Athena- Athens’ patron Goddess, was a Goddess that resembled reason, rationality, and power of the mind, while the patron Goddess of Corinth was Aphrodite who represented passion, emotion, and sentiment. As I was processing these relationships I began to think primarily of how these two concepts: reason and passion, played into the creation of columns with respect to Greek Architecture. As I observed the Parthenon from the rooftop I paid close attention to the type of columns used to support the structure itself, Doric. I began to hypothesize to myself that the Doric column was chosen because it is a style that depicts everything that Athens wanted to be remembered as: A society of Reason. The Doric columns pure cut shape is mathematically precise, geometrically sound, and very symmetrical. It is a style that coincides analogously with the ideals of Athens/Athena, mainly those of rationality and reason alone. Certainly this is why this style was chosen for the most important place/site in Athens.
Corinthian columns, on the other hand, certainly embrace the ideals of the Corinthian city state and those of Aphrodite. Its design initiates an inner emotional feel, and it is one that subsequently resembles the notions of passion, emotion, and sentiment, all of which internally comprise the Goddess Aphrodite and the unique city state itself.
MAY 15th
The anticipation for today’s Athens adventure was most definitely tangible. I was astounded of the sheer mass of the Parthenon itself, but also the size of the actual city. We were shown by Dionysia several places (apart from atop the Acropolis) where we can see the outstretched plain of the modern city. Pictures in these spots were great. As I was informed, the ideal capacity of this now extremely large city (now a population of over 4 million) is approximately 400,000. I witnessed from the Acropolis how the houses sprawl from every corner, up the sloping mountain range creating a viewable periphery that surely will continue to grow in this post-industrial/urbanized age.
The Agora was fascinating. I remember reading works of Plato/Aristotle/Socrates where the ancient Agora was only mentioned briefly. I wish I could have seen it during its days of operation, and while it was at full capacity. I talked briefly with Professor Bregman about neo-Platonism, which ultimately lead me to want to research the subject on my own time, as the Philosophy department doesn’t offer it. At this point hunger struck, and we were now on our own for the day.
Today also brought some unfortunate events. Two of our travelers were robbed, and I was completely distressed. Surprisingly, Cameron was calm and collected, but he was getting rather tired of telling the story over and over again. Luckily both he and Professor Bregman cancelled their credit cards. I had heard that four minutes after the mishap, there was an account access attempt. This was astonishing, and luckily nothing more was stolen.
MAY 16th
I thought that I would dread the 3 hour drive to Delphi but it was one of the more amazing driving expeditions I have ever been on. Exiting the city was interesting because we were able to view the city in full operating force. Much like a chaotic New York City, Athens was faster paced that I had expected. During this drive, what had really caught my attention was the mountainous landscape as we grew closer to the spiritual settings surrounding Delphi. Although my fear of heights conquered me from time to time while we wound around the treacherous mountain passage, I did not allow myself to be fully consumed by this limiting human fear. I told myself to accept my surroundings with comfort and ease in order to negate the possibility of our bus tipping over the edge! (This was quite the task as I was constantly being comforted with religious monuments positioned on the sides of the road, which indicated someone had survived a perilous accident in that very location. Frightening!
Delphi was spiritually illuminating. Although the hikes were hard and long, I was constantly taken up by where I was situated at every moment during this day trip. Dionysia had much to say here, and I was extremely impressed with the amount of information she had given at this particular site, specifically the knowledge she had on the Oracle and how the process of prophesizing actually took place. The museum trip, although brief, also offered a lot of insight as to the purpose and the “going-ons” of this mystical site.
We had a lot to discuss on the trip back to Athens, which allowed time to go by very quickly for me. I think we were all effected in a positive and influential way after experiencing Delphi (an expansion of consciousness so-to-speak), and perhaps a little tired as well after the hike to the sports stadium.
May 17th
Today was rather a relaxing day after yesterday’s extensive journey. This was well needed especially considering the fact that I was still fighting off jet-lag! However, I was able to make it out of the hotel for some tasty Gyros and a quick trip to the botanical gardens. Unfortunately I missed the Philosophy discussion, but I was filled in as to what was discussed by a few of those who attended. It seems they are really into Plato here in Greece, strange, I would figure it would be Aristotle, or maybe even Socrates?
Athens impresses me with what once comprised a great city state, and with what now still remains. What great human genius and ingenuity. They certainly were beyond their time in more ways than one.
May 18th
I really enjoyed today’s discussion at Eleusis. The true mysticism behind the great mysteries of Eleusis was intriguing to say the least. However, I began to ask myself, why was nothing ever written about the initiations or the mysteries themselves for the sake of history? Wouldn’t someone have written something after the “theogenic practices” had run its course, and after punishment for such “divulging of information” had been eradicated? It is a shame not to know exactly what had happened at that very location, although professor Bregman seemed to have a good idea. Lost with time and forgotten I suppose.
Lunch at the stop in Corinth was much anticipated. We were able to view the canal which was awe inspiring, although again, my fear of heights would not allow me to meander onto the bridge. Pictures did me just fine.
Epidaurus was also a place of extreme intrigue. Everything there seemed not to matter after we were graced with the vocals of Professor Ogle. Sitting at the highest point of the theater, overlooking the lush vegetation directly insight, I was not prepared for what was to come. Her vocals made the experience there really come to life, and surely touched us all in a unique way.
May 19th
I am glad we don’t have to eat the Acropolis View Hotel “breakfast” anymore. I don’t think any of us were keen on what they had to offer, although the cuisine (Gyros for me) in the Plaka most certainly made up for it. We were given a few hours this morning to do some looking around, and hopefully find that perfect gift. Prices were high, but I had cased the Plaka several days in advance so I knew what was a bargain or a rip-off when I attempted to make my initial purchases.
Next we made our way to the Athens Archaeological Museum, which was filled with a plethora of statues, jewelry, burial pots, and archaeological finds that are unfathomable.
As we came closer to our departure time from the museum and our embarking time on the Minoan Lines to Crete, excitement and extreme anticipation was running through my body. As we drew closer to the Pireaus, we were drawn in by the sheer mass of the docked cruise liners. We must have had the largest one in Port. After the Museum, everyone was pretty much wiped-out, but as soon as the view of our ship hit us in the face, we awoke from our fatigue as if we were children awaking on Christmas morning.
As soon as we cast off, I gave off a little yell generated from my pent up anticipation, and my curiosity to finally see Crete. Poor Amanda got sick because she is extremely susceptible to motion sickness, but we all helped out in making here feel more comfortable amongst the rough waters.
May 20th
Finally we arrived in Heraklion after quite a journey at sea. I had never traveled on a cruise liner before, and for me, it was a piece of cake. This morning I heard a few complaints about the size of the rooms, or the noise the actual ship generates, but for some reason I am extremely comfortable at sea. I had also reached the conclusion that after our flight back to the US, I will only travel on boats, as there is no reason for me to be filled with anxiety before, and during flights.
The drive from Heraklion to Hersonissou was short, and upon our arrival I immediately checked in the hotel and headed to the beach with Elyse. We picked up some spinach pie on the way, only to find the cheapest prices as of yet. The water was cold, and both Elyse and I were exhausted, so we headed back to the Thalia Hotel where we smooched our beds together and got some well needed shut-eye.
Later that day we attended the very enlightening discussion hosted by Professor Passman and Professor Bregamn. After this a group of us headed to go grab a bite at a restaurant located at the waterfront right near our hotel. Very convenient. For some reason I felt more at ease her in Crete than I did in Athens. Being a country boy at heart, although I am from a large city, I find myself more attracted to places that are slow-paced and easily maneuverable. Elyse and I had decided at this point that our next European adventure will be a return back to this very location. What a pleasure it is to be here.
May 21st
Today I experienced what I thought I had left behind in Athens: An alleged continental “breakfast” comprised of similar meats and cheeses that one would assume would be served at a lunch buffet. Understandably, I am in a foreign country, but I feel in some respect these hotels are trying to cut financial corners in providing what they themselves normally wouldn’t eat. I suppose I am a little frustrated. Not a worry, I am told Crete is notorious for its Gyros, so the hunt begins.
We had also met our tour guide today, this cool looking but extremely informative Cretan (not in a pejorative sense) had a little swagger to his presence and I think we were all drawn in by this. Not to say Dionysia didn’t have her admirable qualities (like telling kids to be quiet, or saying god knows what to neighboring, loud and pesky tour guides) she just didn’t captivate my attention as well as George had. He was authoritative but relaxed at the same time. His observations of Knossos were sound and beneficial in helping us try to comprehend the fact that we were observing the ruins and resting places of one of the first European civilizations, whose technology and innovative techniques laid the groundwork for how life is lived some 3000 years later. (Could have been 6000, but I am not quite sure).
May 22
Today was probably one of my more favorite days as of yet. We experienced the beaches, great scenery, and of course great food. I was particularly impressed with Matala. Although Phaiestos itself was appealing (the view amazing), I found a lot of repetitiveness from what we saw in Knossos even though they were different civilizations altogether.
The beach at Matala was splendid, and created in me a feeling of tranquility. This is something that I don’t feel very often because I am usually stressed about school or family matters, but at this point I was able to reflect and be with people that I am growing very fond of and feel comfortable around. No one on this trip is superficial, they show you who they really are. Too many people, nowadays, are caught up in presenting themselves as something that they are not, and this is especially true where I come from. Friendships are already forming, and I hope I don’t lose touch with these people.
May 23
Today is the Big Day for Elyse and me. We have been anticipating this trip for months. Although we had to get up fairly early, everything we had to endure was worth what we had seen in Santorini. I enjoyed the cruise, although again, Amanda unfortunately got sick. Elyse and Amanda have been good friends for quite some time, so she did not hesitate to lend her a hand.
While entering the Caldera I could not stop taking photographs! I was completely taken in by everything my surrounding visual environment had to offer me, until Elyse spotted the bus path that we had to take to get to the village. This time I told myself not to be afraid, but I had to sit at the front of the bus so I wouldn’t have an episode. Even though the hair pin turns the driver was taking while talking on his cell-phone drive me mad, I comported myself as if I were in an OK state. Finally we made it to the top where we got out and walk around for a while. Photos were superb at this point of our trip.
Again we got back on the bus and headed to the village nestled at the highest elevation on all of Santorini. Here we were able to break off from the group, because this portion of the trip turned into a sort of scatter-shot operation, but I don’t think this affected any of our impressions of where we were located at this specific time and place. The view from where we ate lunch was one of the most glamorous, awe inspiring, picturesque settings I have ever laid my eyes upon. Too bad we were only here for such a short period.
The decent down the mountain side was hilarious. I watched a small group of our “27” hop on a few donkey for a swift trip down towards our boat back to Crete. Others opted to take the cable car down, while Elyse and I walked the whole ~670 steps (of course along with others). My legs were shaking at the end and it was time to get back on the boat. Santorini is certainly filled with wonderment.
May 24th
It is depressing knowing most of us will be leaving each other behind upon our arrival back in Orono. This is all I could really think and feel during the whole day while Elyse and I jetted around various beaches, and even more so during our farewell dinner.
Professor Bregman executed the farewell speech with perfection and class. The food was great and the company even better. I will be terribly sad once leaving this place although I normally don’t let my emotions run. Tomorrow we have the great journey back across the Atlantic leaving behind tremendous places, but taking with us fulfilling memories and unforgettable experiences. I wish safe travels to all.
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